Showing posts with label Danube Cruise. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Danube Cruise. Show all posts

Day 38 - Passau-Cruise

Saturday 2 July: Last day in Passau, so for an early morning activity, we crossed the bridge and raced up the hill to the castle, arriving before the museum and lookouts were open.

The castle is another one of those heavily fortified fortresses that would be impossible to attack successfully.

From the castle we had a great view of Passau and the confluence of the 3 rivers – and our hotel.


We had decided to just get a coffee and pasty in a café instead of a full breakfast in the hotel, but couldn’t find anything open – the city is dead on a Sunday morning after the football.

Just when we were about to give up, we found an excellent little bakery who had pastries and coffee.

While there we ran into 3 Czech cyclists on a 500 km trip to Bratislava, who were incredibly social. Good fun.



To pass time before boarding the ship in the afternoon, we had a look at the Glass Museum which was in the same building as our hotel.

It has lots of examples of manufactured glass, focusing on Bohemia and Silesia, some pieces form other parts of the world for comparison, and some quite recent pieces.

We thought it would take about 30 mins, but took forever. It started on the 5th floor, and wound down wards, with room after room of display cases filled with items.

It felt like an Alice in Wonderland adventure. Although I found it interesting, it probably had some of the ugliest pieces of glassware I’d ever seen. I know it’s a matter of taste, but maybe I don’t have the right stuff.

Frances enjoyed it more than I did. I have to admit though, it would have to be the most comprehensive exhibition of glassware in the world, and certainly of this type. Eventually we exited through a virtually unmarked small metal door ground floor





I commented to the receptionist that it must take up a large proportion of the hotel, and she said 60%!

The owner of the hotel funded the museum, so essentially the hotel operation would fund the museum. It’s a large gesture when many of the display rooms have the best views in the hotel which could be turned into accommodation.

Apologies for the poor quality of the photos.


Some short final items from Passau: A bit desperate for some Asian food, we had a very expensive sushi in Passau with a Hacklberg wheat beer. It was worth it!


There was a street exhibition of photographs of Passau from 1940 to 1990.



A number of the shops and homes in Passau have shutters made of riveted steel – very steam punk.



We boarded the cruise ship at Lindau, 3 km from Passau as there were not enough berths at the Passau docks - it’s now approaching peak tourist season.

We thought that we’d buy some extra supplies, bottled, water, wine, etc for the 14 day trip as purchases on board are expensive.

Much to our surprise, although there were 2 supermarkets nearby, both were closed – it’s Sunday. We are so used to supermarkets being open every day. It was a similar story when we went for breakfast – most of the stores, apart from food outlets were closed!

The ship is fairly large and has a mix of German, French, English and Japanese passengers (they have their own interpreter). Unfortunately, not only is Frances probably the youngest passenger on board, I’m probably the second-youngest - they’re mostly pretty old. Although it’s a German ship, most of the crew are multi-lingual so language is no problem.

The ship left at 5pm, and dinner was at 7pm. We were allocated tables based on language, and we shared ours with 4 Americans. Dinner conversation was going well until I mentioned Barack Obama.

Well, talk about a red rag to a bull, they launched into a tirade about his failings, and had a go at Hillary Clinton as well. Whether it was that or not, but one guy developed a sudden nose-bleed which flooded his shirt.

He was OK a little while later, but we may not discuss politics again on the trip – EVER.

Dinner was pretty good – I think this is part of the attraction, and so they make a big effort. I'll resist the temptation to include photos of the meals on the cruise.


Internet access on-board costs 8 € per day ($12 AU) or 35 € per week ($52 AU). We bought a 20 € ($30 AU) chip for the phone which gives 750MB of data per month, pretty low.

I’ve set the phone to create a personal hotspot so that I can use it with the laptop to access the internet which seems to be working OK. Because we’re moving, connections drop in and out which is a bit frustrating. We’ll have to be careful with usage to make it last the 2 weeks though.


Day 38 - Cruise

This is a series of maps showing the passage of the cruise we took on the Anadeus Brilliant.


Day 41 - Vukovar

Wednesday 6 July: The ship left Hungary and passed between Serbia and Croatia and docked in Vukovar, Croatia today. Vukovar is located in the Eastern part of the Republic of Croatia and the city is positioned on important transport routes from the northwest to the southeast in the Danube Valley. We decided to borrow the ship's bicycles and just cycle around the town.

After the Romans it was settled by the Slavs, and has been controlled at various times by the Hungarians and the Ottomans, among may others.

It became part of Yugoslavia after WWI, and was the centre of the Bata (shoes and other goods) manufacturing industry.

Following the break-up of Yugoslavs, a bitter conflict , called the Homeland War, which was fought with the Serb-controlled Yugoslav People's Army (JNA) from 1991 to 1995. It created a deep cultural divide although they are genetically similar.


The town itself is not very big, and still shows signs of the fighting.

Many buildings still have bullet holes. The overall air is one of survival rather than thriving, as many people left during the fighting and not all returned. There is still the issue of unsettled ownership of property where original owners or their inheritors have not been established.

As we cycled we came across the city's water tower, riddled with bullet holes (see Frances' post) , which was retained by city planners to serve as a testimony to the Homeland War.

We also visited the award-winning Vukovar Museum installed in the former Eltz Palace which covers everything from prehistory to the present.

The amount of information over 4 levels is daunting, but forms an excellent visual educational resource, especially for students. Overall it was a slightly depressing, but informative and worthwhile visit.

Here are some photos from Frances of the destruction in the museum.


Day 42 - Belgrade

Thursday 7 July: Today we arrived in Belgrade, capital of Serbia, the opponents of Croatia in the civil war following the break-up of Yugoslavia.

We had a guided tour by Ivanka of the castle, the Cathedral of Saint Sava and walk through the pedestrian mall.

The castle dates to Roman times as Belgrade is located on the confluence of of two major rivers, the Danube and the Sava. The grounds as well as being a historic tourist attraction is used for sport and even has a dinosaur park – Clive Palmer eat your heart out.

A feature of the castle park is a statue of a naked warrior, that so offended the ladies of Belgrade, that conditions for its location include that its private parts must not be visible from the city. Hence it has been installed on the hill of the castle, facing across the river.

Belgrade’s landscape is similar to Budapest, in that settlement first occurred on the hilly side, and the low-lying opposite shore was essentially uninhabited until recent times.





The Cathedral of Saint Sava is an incomplete Byzantine style cathedral that has been under construction for over 80 years, interrupted by various events.

The exterior is almost complete and work has commenced on the interior. It is used for services during the construction. It also had the obligatory modern building opposite which reflected the cathedral in its windows.




The walk through the city centre was interesting in that although there were many classically styled buildings, the overall impression was on of decay and neglect. Many of the building had a grey cement exteriors, and looked in need of maintenance.

There was quite a contradiction in the overall dilapidated appearance of a building on the upper floors, and the often stylishly modern shop at street level. There are things that you notice when entering a different city.



The temperatures in Belgrade range from the high 30s in Summer to snow in the winter. Today was approaching 30C and quite humid. In Belgrade I noticed the air conditioners. Almost every building has a bevy of air conditioners attached to the exterior, regardless of the type of building.




I have more photos to post of Belgrade, but it’s fairly late and the ship is about to leave port. We are having problems with internet access, so future posts may be intermittent. Meanwhile, here are some photos of food in Belgrade.
* Selection of Balkan foods
* The first Greek (instead of Turkish) souvlaki restaurant
* The ultimate stuffed crust pizza
* The first Chinese restaurant NOT run by Chinese people




Following on from the previous post on Belgrade, there are some beautiful buildings. One of the best is the Hotel Moskva (Hotel Moscow).

It was designed by Belgrade-based architect Jovan Ilkić, but completed by a Russian architects and employed tiles on the exterior to provide colour and protection.

Along one side is a heavily patronised café-restaurant.



Another nicely designed building was the Zepter Musej (Zepter Museum) of modern art.


One building had a quite strange design. It had very few windows, and appeared to have large panels of sandstone as part of the façade. Especially strange as the predominant local stone is limestone.



Later I walked to see part of the damage caused during the Kosovo War in 1999.

A military headquarters was targeted with a missile by NATO and partially destroyed.

It has essentially been left in that state since as a reminder of the war, although it is substantially obscured by a gigantic billboard - I didn't quite understand the message

Finding the site was fairly difficult as the map from the ship had street names in English, whereas the actual street names were either in the Cyrillic or Serbian alphabet - when I could find one!

The photo shows the street sign for Kraljice Natalije Street.

I also found a wall mural but unfortunately couldn't really understand the message, although I think it's ant-war.



Overall, my impression is of a country struggling with recovery from conflict, rebuilding but also getting on with life. It appears whatever devastation or tragedy has happened in the past, the current population gets on with life. This is probably true in Vukovar as well.

When I asked our guide Ivanka about Serbian relations with Croatia now, she said the general population have reconciled much quicker than the politicians – but still some way to go. She said that Serbia itself is comprised of many nationalities that have lived in the region for hundreds of years and see it as their homeland.

Also, because of the low economic climate in the Balkan countries, many young people travel to Western Europe in search of work. For example, our German ship is essentially staffed by Bulgarians, Romanians, Hungarians and other Balkans.

Belgrade is full of people trying to earn a living, promoting tourism, and young people out to enjoy life. Kids are playing in the fountains, young people are enjoying coffee, ice-cream and each others’ company – something not missed by the marketing departments of multinational companies.


Farewell from Belgrade. I thought you might like the photo of the police car – the larger the police, the smaller the car?