Showing posts with label Krakow. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Krakow. Show all posts

Day 25 - Krakow

Monday 20 June We arrived in Krakow in the early afternoon and had a nice coffee in a café at the station before trying to find our accommodation. The weather was fine, so we walked the approximately 850 metres to the Air BnB apartment – outside the old city centre. We've realised that we're both fitter on this trip to Europe than last time 5 years ago, thanks to more exercising and walking before we left. This has made the amount of travelling walking we've done a lot easier. Fortunately the apartment it was nicely located in a quiet street, large and comfortable. After settling in we took the afternoon easy apart from shopping for some groceries.

We did some research about local eateries before heading into the old city. Wroclaw is one of the oldest cities in Poland and has gone through the usual cycle of growth, disasters, invasions, destruction and regrowth. One big difference is that it was not destroyed in the first or second World Wars, and so the historic buildings are originals – not ‘fakes’ as they claim cities like Wroclaw are. It also claims to have the largest city square in Poland. A little rivalry there.

A nice touch is that for many of the important buildings, there is a small bronze model nearby with information about it in Braille. This means that blind people can also get an experience of the building. The old city was build on a highly defensive river location with a high wall and other physical defences which effectively protected it, but which have largely been removed, and replaced by parkland which makes the city unique. The town square is indeed huge, bigger than anything I’ve seen in Italy or France, and dominated by a large market building in the centre – a poplar arrangement in Poland.



Rather than just wander the streets looking for food, this time we carefully selected a restaurant for dinner via the internet. When we arrived it was closed – not open on Mondays! So, we wandered the streets looking for food.

Not far away, we found another restaurant in the ‘Milk Bar’ style with relatively cheap Polish food and nicely decorated, with and English menu, Polskie Smaki. Because we’d arrived a little late, not everything was available, but here was still a reasonable choice. We had also decided to just have a light meal, and not order too much.

Frances ordered Duck Pierogi, filled with duck, fig, lemon and basil. I ordered a Polish Meat Croquette. For sides we had fried beetroot, shredded carrot and shredded cabbage. The food was excellent, Frances particularly enjoying the Duck Pierogi which had a really unique flavour. They also had little bottles of wine, so Frances had a chardonnay which was quite good, while I had a local beer.


Day 26 - Krakow

Tuesday 21 June We had a pretty big day planned today, starting with the two and a half hour Krakow Free Walking Tour of the old city. It was a very large group for a change, probably because Wroclaw has more tourism overall, particularly foreigners.

Fortunately the guide, Sophia, spoke good English and had a loud voice. She spent a lot of time talking about Krakow and Poland’s history, with unpronounceable names of kings and queens and their chequered histories. The painting in the photo is by Leonardo da Vinci (a copy) owned by a wealthy family in Krakow, but has not been on display for many years due to a very extended (and controversial) period of renovation of their private museum.

After being sacked in 1241, during the First Mongol invasion of Poland the city was destroyed. When it was rebuilt, it was done using a grid pattern for the streets which is unusual for that time. She also told us many legends (a very few true) about these of kings and queens and other events in Krakov. 

For example there is a legend that the reason the trumpeter plays a tune every 15 minutes in the cathedral tower always stops abruptly is because the trumpeter that signalled the city of advancing enemies was shot by an arrow – not true.

The tune is played by a rotation of 6 trumpeters, plus one reserve, in 24 hour shifts where they stay in the tower – true. Watch the video. We saw all of the main town features, including the place where the young future Pope John Paul studied and became a priest. He’s pretty popular here.


The next part of the tour was to the castle and cathedral on top of the only hill. Like everything, it has a chequered history, its last reconstruction since 1990 partly funded by individuals around the world. Never having been destroyed, the main cathedral building is a mish-mash of architectural styles, reflecting the idiosyncratic wishes of whoever was in power at the time.

Speaking of mish-mash, many buildings in the city have a combination of gothic and renaissance style because this was seen as appropriate, and was done mainly be Italian artisans imported for the task.
Original sculpture in the Temple of
Castor and Pollux, Agrigento, Sicily

There is also the controversial bronze head in the main square which is a copy of an ancient sculpture in the Temple of Castor and Pollux in Agrigento, Sicily. The locals hate it, the tourists love it Controversial because it was given to the Krakow by the artist for the main square.

When the town councillors wanted to move it elsewhere he threatened to take it back so it was left in place. A bit like the dwarfs in Wroclaw, a magnet for the tourist Euro.




We only had a short time to grab a quick bite before we headed off on our next tour, the salt mine of Wieliczka, a 20 min-bus ride out of Krakow. It’s just a tourist attraction, no longer operating, but processes thousands of tourists a day like a sausage machine. However the tours are well-organised and managed, possibly better than the mine when it was operational.

Basically the mine was started about a thousand years ago when the salty water that bubbled to the surface dried up and they started digging downwards. This also explains in part why Krakow was built nearby, was so wealthy, and sought after by other powers.

We descended by foot about 65 metres and marvelled at caves, carvings and dioramas – models of the way in which it was mined which was quite interesting. For example the men who went into the mine first each day clad in wet garments and carrying torches to detect pockets of methane that may have built up. I hope their families were well compensated.

Within the mine are chapels, halls, salt sculptures religious motifs, and shops, built mainly by the miners themselves. There are chandeliers made using salt crystals. In places where large quantities of salt were excavated, complex structures of wooden beams support the tunnel roofs. The most amazing thing was in fact the hardness of the rock – it’s very hard.

In the temperature and humidity controlled environment the salt is fairly inactive. I was expecting metallic corrosion something more like Sydney’s beachside suburbs, but there was none. Although where water seeps through the rock, there are stalactites of pure white salt. Most of the rock salt is a greyish colour. We were not allowed into the areas where there is crystalline salt as the humidity created by breathing would destroy it.



We finally exited via a miner's cage lift. Even though we felt a little manipulated, for example by the cheesy commentary, the scripted jokes and cute directional signs it was worth the trip and the money to see an original salt mine – as opposed to one created by the NSW or Federal Government for government staff.



We planned to have dinner at Resatauancja Tomasza tonight, the one that was closed yesterday, but it didn’t seem so good, so we went back to Polskie Smaki again.

I was hoping for the cabbage rolls, but no luck tonight. Frances ordered the Pork Knuckle in Beer with potatoes while I decided to have a mix of Meat and Spinach Pierogi with sided of spinach and vegetables.

Despite looking pretty awesome, the pork knuckle was very good. We also know that it was cooked in beer as we saw the chef pouring a bottle over it while cooking. It came with huge dollops of mustard and horseradish. The Pierogi were fine, although I was glad I’d brought a small shaker of Japanese chilli pepper with me that added a little spice to the flavour.



Day 27 - Krakow

Wednesday 22 June We had a big day planned; a four and a half hour walking tour of Nowa Huta, a new planned city on the outskirts of Krakow.

However things don't always go to plan when you're travelling.  We allowed time to walk from our accomodation to the town square to meet the guide at 10:30. As we were about to leave, we realised that someone had deadlocked the front to the building and we couldn’t get out. After the initial mild panic we started knocking on all the other doors, to no avail. Eventually one resident appeared and we did a sign language explanation about the problem with the door. He unlocked it for us, and instead of a leisurely 20 minute walk, we had a 6 minute run. We made it, hot, bothered and just a little cranky.

Nowa Huta was designed by the Soviets to be a new type of socialist society. It was to provide housing for 100,000 people to service the new steelworks built adjacent to it. It was started in 1949 and operational by 1960. It was also designed to be a city able to withstand the ravages of the proposed Third World War planned by Stalin.

All public buildings had bomb-proof bunkers and water supply. The buildings were arranged so that they could be defended against tanks in the case of an attack. The walls were unnecessarily thick for residential buildings and entry to apartment complexes we through a narrow passageway that could be collapsed onto tanks, blocking them from attack. There were also positions for snipers on the rooftops.

Damien, our guide was pretty anti-communist, and tended to focus on the negative aspects. I think part of the dislike of communism here is entwined with Soviet oppression.

The Russians are essentially seen as the last in a long line of invaders that dominated the Polish people. Every physical reminder (statues, street names, etc) of Stalin et al. has been removed and/or destroyed. The city was looked nowhere as bad as could be expected, lots of trees, gardens and parkland. On closer inspection though, there was shabbiness to it all.

Only a few places had any kind of maintenance and many areas were overgrown by weeds. The steel mill now only employs a fraction of the original workforce and unemployment is high. There is almost nothing for young people to do – they all go to Krakow, 20 minutes away by tram. When the steel mill was operational, both Nowa Huta and Krakow were heavily affected by smoke and acid rain. The aerial photos show the relative sizes of Krakow, Nowa Huta and the steelworks.

Because the communists were against religion and religious icons, other imagery replaced them.

For example ceramic plates were attached to ceilings and decorative ceramic chandeliers were made for the city.



We were treated to a communist propaganda movie promoting the Utopian vision. However, the venue itself was more interesting, decorated with a collection of communist era manufactured goods.

 


There was strong pressure to have a church built which caused a great deal of friction between the population and government, causing many arrests and some deaths.

Eventually a church was built which took ten years to complete and is full of symbolism a result of pressure on both sides. For example the cross on top is not visible from below, and is orientated so that from the city it looks just like a spire.

In effect overall, Nowa Huta is not unlike new townships built on the outskirts of Sydney, lacking in infrastructure, employment and social cohesion. Over 65 years years later though, a community built essentially from farmers and unskilled workers has developed a strong sense of identity and identify more strongly with Nowa Huta than Krakow.

We didn’t get back from the tour until around 4pm – five and a half hours after we started! We were tired and starving. After a quick snack we both flaked out and had a sleep. Communism is taking its toll on us as well.


We only had a short time then to prepare for an 8pm concert by the Royal Chamber Orchestra. They are a small four-string orchestra whose music is “the perfect combination of excellent taste, unlimited imagination and the perfect technique. They performed a selection of old and modern classics, including works such as Piazzola’s Libertango.

The performance takes place on an upper floor of a 15the century building and we were greeted with a small glass of sparkling wine on arrival. Fortunately the music was better than the wine.

The leader, Kamil Skicki, is a bit of a character and wove some virtuoso and humourous elements into a personalised interpretation of some pieces. From what I could tell, their playing was superb.

We were seated only a couple of metres away from the quartet, and the acoustics in the room were excellent, which made the music quite enveloping. Absolutely worthwhile.




After the Royal Chamber Orchestra performance, we stopped at a small local restaurant for a late evening snack. Frances just had a simple Borscht, and I finally got Stuffed Cabbage. The Borscht was a bit thin, but the flavour was good. The Stuffed Cabbage came with a creamy tomato sauce which was unusually tasty. It had a slight hint of curry (we’ve noticed this a bit in Poland) but a little too salty. It went very well with a wheat beer though.




Some final photos from Krakow: Typical regional ceramics, a cartoon shop and a the obligatory manhole cover.