Showing posts with label Zakopane. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Zakopane. Show all posts

Day 28 - Zakopane

Thursday 23 June I may have mentioned yesterday about how things don’t always go to plan. Today, we planned to catch a bus from Krakow  to Zakopane. Our air BnB host in Krakow offered to drive us to the bus station. We casually waited until he messaged us that he was caught in a traffic jam because of an accident. With almost no time to spare, we hot-footed it to the nearest tram stop, caught a tram, and ran, dragging our suitcases to the bus station. We arrived with only a few minutes to spare, hot, bothered and just a little cranky.

The bus trip to Zakopane wasn’t too bad, but because of road works, the 2-hour trip took an extra half hour.

Zakopane is a ski resort in winter and hiking resort in summer. Or hotel is one of those pointy roofed lodges and we have a nice (if cramped) room. The town centre is about a 10 minute walk away, so after settling in we went for a walk.

There are virtually no signs here of the effects of communism, wars or any signs of conflict, although it was used as a base by the Polish Resistance in WWII. It’s also different from the rest of Poland and more like a mountain culture.

The clothes are different, the food is different (to and extent) and the dialect is different. They also have a large range of their own local beers. We are surrounded by mountains and forests and there is a ropes adventure park across the road.



Searching for somewhere to eat at night is always an adventure, and tonight we found a local Gorale restaurant, Bakowo Zohylina. It had a live band playing local music and songs and even some dancing demonstration.

The songs did not sound Polish at all, almost like Italian Tyrolean songs. The dancing was a bit too much like Morris dancing for me though. Their clothing is quite different to anything we’ve seen, and the men had very thick, stiff woollen pants that almost looked like they’d stand up by themselves. Too hot for the current weather though.

After a bracket of dancing they’d worked up a decent sweat, not to mention crunching around the gravel courtyard taking orders and delivering food. They actually seemed to be enjoying their work. Everything was made of wood – the restaurant, the furniture, the serviette holders and the menus. So heavy there’s no chance anyone could steal them.

Frances ordered Highlander Potato Cakes with Goulash which came with grated cheese and loads of pickled gherkins. She loved it, and I agreed that it was the best goulash we’d had. The potato cakes were pretty good too and the pickles a nice touch. I ordered Grilled Veal with Dumplings. This was one of the best meals I’ve had this trip. The veal was well-done, but had a good herb flavour, the tomato-cream sauce had a little hint of spiciness, and the dumplings, well they were just like gnocchi. In fact the meal could have been Italian.

Very different to the Polish meals we’ve had to date. Because the meals were not too big we decided to share a dessert – Apple Cake. It was a bit like an apple slice, but with much better ingredients and not too sweet. The tart sauce and whipped cream went perfectly with it. Beautiful surroundings, good food, eating outdoors, pleasant weather and couple of glasses of red wine makes travelling just bearable.


Day 29 - Zakopane

Friday 24 June: Today we’d booked on a Rafting trip on the Dunajca River in the Pieniński National Park. The river runs between to borders of Poland and Slovakia. It took over an hour and a half in a small mini-bus to get to the start of the trip at Przystań Flisacka.
There are a couple of photos of the scenery on the way there.

The ‘raft’ is actually built in 5 sections and tied together with rope. It’s apparently a traditional way of transporting good downriver. At the end point, the raft is separated and carried back upstream in trucks, previously on horse-drawn carts. Fresh branches are tied to the front to prevent water being splashed in during the trip. Two men control the raft, a captain at the front and a steersman at the rear.

There are a limited number of licensed rafters which do an apprenticeship of 5 years. Most are family businesses. The apprentice stands in the rear, doing most of the work. Our captain was a real character, and apparently told jokes in Polish all the way. It was difficult to get a straight answer to any questions we asked. The entire trip was 18 km, travelling through the national park at various speeds depending on the width of the river. There were no real rapids, but there were sections where the raft flexed and creaked through the rougher water. Frances did her best not to jump in, settling for dangling her feet over the side. Not too dangerous, although I did spot a tiny water snake. After about an hour of rafting we disembarked at Szczawnica Przystan. By now the temperature was over 30 degrees and Frances had to have a swim – not long though because we had to board the mini-bus for the drive to the castle in Niedzica.




Rafting on the Dunajca River in the Pieniński National Park.


After finishing the rafting trip at Szczawnica Przystan we drove to the the castle in Niedzica for lunch. It is above the dam on the Czorsztyn Lake. A beautiful spot, but in the afternoon glare, photography was nearly impossible. We struck up a friendship with Viola, a Polish woman who runs her own small human relations company. It was great to get her insights into Polish life and culture, and hope to catch up with her when she visits Australia.

While there, Frances and Viola bought some Oscypek cheese. This is a smoked cheese made of salted sheep milk exclusively in the Tatra Mountains region of Poland. It’s sole everywhere in stalls and some stores. Oscypek is made using salted sheep's milk, with the addition of cow's milk.

Unpasteurized salted sheep's milk is first turned into cottage cheese, which is then repeatedly rinsed with boiling water and squeezed. After this, the mass is pressed into wooden, spindle-shaped forms in decorative shapes. The forms are then placed in a brine-filled barrel for a night or two, after which they are placed close to the roof in a special wooden hut and cured in hot smoke for up to 14 days. (Wikipedia) The flavour is too smoky for me, but Fances, and of course the rest of Poland, love it. Traditionally the small oval pieces are served warmed up with a dab of cranberry jam.



Our last stop was a pretty unique Archangel Michael's Church at Debno Podhalanskie.

It was built in the mid 15th Century and is made completely of larch wood. It’s been in use since then, an amazing feat for a wooden structure.

There are some interior photos from their website – photography inside was not permitted.

 Eventually, after more than 8 hours since we left, we returned to Zakopane for a well-earned rest.




We chose the local Bar Mleczny (Milk Bar) for dinner tonight, just a 15 minute walk into Zakopane. With a completely Polish menu and staff, the only way we could order was to point at what other people were having.

You’d think by now we’d have learned enough Polish to read menus, but we’re still finding it too difficult. Frances ordered the Pork Schnitzel which came with potatoes and salad which she enjoyed. Still looks and tastes like chicken to me.

I ordered Potato Pancakes with Mushroom Sauce. They are made with grated potato and onion, mixed with egg and flour and pan fried. Probably not that healthy, but taste really good. The creamy mushroom sauce and a side salad was an ideal accompaniment for a light meal. After dinner we walked around the town which was alive with visitors. This is the first place we’ve been where almost the only voices we here are Polish.


We even saw the Hiking Nuns as we had an after-dinner evening walk. There are some travellers for other countries, but are a small minority. It’s a refreshing change.


Day 30 - Zakopane

Saturday 25 June: We’ve had a bit of a break in Zakopane, the weather has been sunny and in the 30’s every day making long walks pretty tiring. It’s a resort town like Karlovy Vary, but much more family, sports and locals orientated, not so many exclusive clothing and jewellery stores.

The town sits in a valley, dominated by the mountains, and has ski runs heading up each side of the valley. There are also permanent runs built into the hillsides for competition and learners. But in summer, there are many hikers walking through the hills and cross-country cyclists riding the trails. In fact, yesterday there were hundreds of cyclists participating in a social event.

There is a sports oval with an undulating track around the outside which people are using for ski practice, using special roller skates instead. The distinctive wooden buildings with the Steep rooflines dominate the town, and its interesting coming across utilitarian objects also made of wood. With the abundant forests surrounding the town it’s the most common resource. What’s interesting is that even though some of the exposed bare wood is quite old, it hasn’t been bleached grey like in Australia. It may have something to do with the different levels of UV radiation.

People lay here in the blazing sun all day and just get a little pink. If they did the same in Australia they’d be suffering major sunburn – as Europeans often do at Sydney beaches. Speaking of utilitarian, there was even a fence using old skis.