Day 2 - Korea

Early Morning

Jay explaining the Hanyangdoseong Wall
Today, Jay took us on a walking tour of the Hanyangdoseong Wall that surrounded the city of Seoul.

Built and repaired over centuries, it has different stone-masonry styles depending on the period.


Map, Hanyangdoseong Wall
Frances, Hanyangdoseong Wall
Different stone-masonry styles


This led to the site of the one of the King Tangan’s palace, now part of Inwangsan (Mountain) national park. It’s now a heavily used parkland and walking track, and we were constantly amazed at the number of, particularly Korean, walking groups with the absolute extreme walking gear – everything they wore was straight out of the latest hiking catalogue.
Frances with jay and her son
Hiking gear
The archery range


This led to the site of the one of the King Tangan’s palace, now part of Inwangsan (Mountain) national park. It’s now a heavily used parkland and walking track, and we were constantly amazed at the number of, particularly Korean, walking groups with the absolute extreme walking gear – everything they wore was straight out of the latest hiking catalogue.

The park also contains an archery range, where the targets are so far away, they light up if hit, and there is a car-park in the in the dip between the archer an the target.

Mid-Morning

Entrance to the Gyeongbokgung Palace
International crowds at the palace
National Palace Museum of Korea

Frances & I then walked the short distance to Gyeongbokgung Palace which was the main royal palace of the Joseon dynasty and built in 1395.

The grounds are vast and the crowds were huge, so we spent most of the time in the National Palace Museum of Korea. It had a fanatic coverage of Korean history, and highlighted the cultural difference from China and Japan although influenced by both at different times. Amongst the many visitors were a large number of young Koreans dressed in traditional costumes which were incredibly colourful.
Palace Guard
One of the king's suits on display
Women in traditional costumes


Across the road, there was a reunification expo aiming to raise awareness of the push to unite North and South Korea.

Frances getting a massage
at the Expo
Reunification Expo
A long time off I’m afraid, given that Kim Jong-un  would have little to gain, and there is some resistance in the South because of the poor state of the North’s economy.

The overall impression in Seoul is of a bustling economy and a strong middle class – Samsung phones are very popular.

Midday

We decided to have lunch in the National Palace Museum - it had nice ambiance and not too expensive.

National Palace Museum restaurant
Goldongban Royal Bibimbap)
Pan-fried Bibimbap

I had the Goldongban (Bibimbap according to the royal recipe) featuring balloon flower roots, bracken, wild aster, chamnamul, bean sprouts and julienned Korean radish on a bed of rice. Frances had Pan-fried Bibimbap, which was a large rice fritter containing balloon flower roots, bracken, wild aster and eggs. Of course it was all accompanied by kim-chi, pickles and Korean chili sauce. Especially tasty were small pickled chilies, a little hot and a little sweet. Both meals were vegetarian and delicious. You’re in trouble in Korea if you don’t like pickled vegetables.

Afternoon

After lunch we went into Bukchon Hanok Village adjacent to the palace. It’s composed of lots of alleys and is preserved to show a 600-year-old urban environment.
Hanok rooftops
Typical Hanok house

House lamp
Hanok house
Hanok house courtyard

Korean ice cream

Can you feel it?

Hanok street scene




It quite interesting if a little over-commercialised (like the Rocks), but had some nice boutique shops, including innovative fashion designs based on the traditional Hanok style. We were getting a little burned out by now as the day was quite hot and sunny, so we decided to walk back home which took a good 45 mins in the heat, Time for a shower and a nap.

Hanok fashion house
Hanok fashion
Hanok fashion
Modern Hanok fashion


Young women in Hanok clothes
Traditional Hanok couple


Evening

Around 6pm we joined Jay again for a trip to the Yeouinari night market. Jay said that it was popular and that was a complete understatement. The riverside was filled with families and young people enjoying the mild evening weather and eating.

Highly organised, there were dozens of food stalls and even more craft/trinket stalls. Fortunately we got some food early and many of the food queues had over 50 people waiting in line!

We had some seafood and chicken ‘things’ which were fine but unexciting, but there were some things we had no idea about and no inclination to eat. Squid grilled in a sandwich press was a sight.
Families and groups on the riverside
Not everything did we want to try
Fried-flattened squid

Squid being cooked
Street food
More tasty street food

Night market stalls
Night performers
By now we were pretty tired and had the challenge of catching the subway and then a 30 minute walk back home, We made it with only a slight miscalculation. Frances’ new activity tracker said we’d walked over 18,500 steps (approx 12 km) each, during the day – that’s far enough!